Now that you have the parts, let's get to the steps to replacement. Here are a few things to keep in mind with vinyl siding.
Install siding and accessories over a flat surface. Always install siding over a rigid sheathing. Vinyl siding is not a watertight material. Install a weather-resistant barrier, like House Wrap and flash around all windows
and doors before installing vinyl siding.
There are three recommended ways to cut vinyl siding: score the panel with a knife or vinyl blade and bend the panel back and forth. Use tin snips to fit panels around windows and doors. For cross cuts, use a circular saw with
a plywood blade in the reverse position.
Always leave room for expansion and contraction into receiving channels like outside and inside corner posts, and J-channel. If the temperature is above 40°, leave 1/4"; if the temperature is below 40°, leave 3/8". When installing horizontal vinyl siding panels 12' 6" in length or shorter, overlap the factory notches 1" to 1-1/4" (depending on the temperature). In the "field" you can stagger and overlap the panels OR use H-seams, the choice is yours. In the photos you will see that instead of using a vinyl siding removal tool, I bent a 16D vinyl coated nail that I use as a substitute. This is OK for small jobs but if you have much to do, I'd spend the few bucks for the right tool.
Always nail in the center of the nail slots: 16" on center for siding;
8" to 12" for accessories. I like using hot dipped galvanized roofing nails that are 1-1/4" in length. In the photos below, you will notice I used zinc screws on the top piece I replaced. This is not recommended in a high wind area. It worked for me because it was a small job and I had a hard time swinging the hammer with the top piece of siding in my back swing.
Do not over drive your fasteners. Always leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail
head and the wall surface to allow for movement when the panel
expands and contracts.