Septic systems are part and parcel of life on a hobby farm where city services are not within reach.
One thing that has made life a little better is installing a septic tank riser to make access easier for
pumping or inspection.  According to the Pros I have spoken with, the best interval to pump you tank is
every four years.  They went on to elaborate that elections are on the same interval and both tanks and
politicians are full of it in that amount of time.  If not scheduled, old Murphy (of Murphy’s law fame)
takes over and the pumping will need to me done at the most inconvenient time. If you want to
pay a guy to dig up the access for you, it will cost you a C-note prior to anything actually leaving the
tank. If that sits well with you, well, you probably wouldn't be checking out a DIY site, now would you?  So Plan ahead and be ready to install a riser during your next tank pumping.  The parts will cost
you between  $100.00 and $150.00. For the best deal call your local precast septic tank company and ask if they sell riser pipe (by the foot) and riser lids. 24 Inch worked for our system but 20” is another common diameter.

Here are three easy steps

1)      Dig to expose the lid

2)      Measure from the tanks surface to the highest point on the surrounding grade and add two inches.

3)      Order the lid and pipe to fit (they will cut for you) Install and backfill.

Tips: use spray foam on tank top to seal where the pipe contacts the tank, leave concrete lid in place, in cold weather climates, install fiberglass insulation in pipe cavity between the lids.  

Questions? Feel free to post them below in comments. Thanks and happy digging!

The exterior siding of your home is the first line of defense in keeping the outside out. The importance of maintaining this barrier to the elements cannot be overstated. Over time repairs are inevitable especially if you have a fun filled, active lifestyle. In cold weather, vinyl siding becomes less resilient and susceptible to breakage when a snowball flies astray from its intended target. We are not here to point fingers or assign blame so if your damage is from an errant golf ball or an abandoned utility connection, we'll discuss the fix here. The most difficult part of this job is to source matching vinyl siding. Often you will need to remove the current piece in order to determine the manufacturer and the color of the siding (printed on the nail strip). Matching the manufacturer is important because various manufacturers offer different colors and simulated wood grain patterns. If you know the home builder give them a call to see if they could point you in the right direction. Often the installation company will source their own material and you may have to get the material from them if there is not a local wholesaler. You may need to put on your detective hat and call around to roofing and siding supply companies in your town. As a last resort, try asking a local supplier representative to "swing by" to identify the siding. They will often do this for free when they are in the neighborhood. This is helpful because they can ID their products and often those of competitors. 
Now that you have the parts, let's get to the steps to replacement. Here are a few things to keep in mind with vinyl siding. 
Weatherproofing
Install siding and accessories over a flat surface. Always install siding over a rigid sheathing. Vinyl siding is not a watertight material. Install a weather-resistant barrier, like House Wrap and flash around all windows 
and doors before installing vinyl siding.  
Cutting
There are three recommended ways to cut vinyl siding: score the panel with a knife or vinyl blade and bend the panel back and forth. Use tin snips to fit panels around windows and doors. For cross cuts, use a circular saw with 
a plywood blade in the reverse position. 
Installation
Always leave room for expansion and contraction into receiving channels like outside and inside corner posts, and J-channel. If the temperature is above 40°, leave 1/4"; if the temperature is below 40°, leave 3/8". When installing horizontal vinyl siding panels 12' 6" in length or shorter, overlap the factory notches 1" to 1-1/4" (depending on the temperature). In the "field" you can stagger and overlap the panels OR use H-seams, the choice is yours. In the photos you will see that instead of using a vinyl siding removal tool,  I bent a 16D vinyl coated nail that I use as a substitute. This is OK for small jobs but if you have much to do, I'd spend the few bucks for the right tool.
Fastening
 Always nail in the center of the nail slots: 16" on center for siding; 
8" to 12" for accessories. I like using hot dipped galvanized roofing nails that are 1-1/4" in length. In the photos below, you will notice I used zinc screws on the top piece I replaced. This is not recommended in a high wind area. It worked for me because it was a small job and I had a hard time swinging the hammer with the top piece of siding in my back swing.
 Do not over drive your fasteners. Always leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail 
head and the wall surface to allow for movement when the panel 
expands and contracts.